Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
